Tharshan Selvarajah, a Sri Lankan immigrant who has resided in France for 17 years without applying for citizenship, has achieved recognition for his bread, even making it for President Emmanuel Macron. The iconic French baguette, a symbol of France, is held in high regard, and Selvarajah, a non-French baker, has garnered acclaim for his exceptional baking skills.
In the 30th edition of the “Grand Prize of the Traditional French Baguette,” organized by the Paris City Hall, the 37-year-old Selvarajah secured the top honor, surpassing 126 other baguettes. As part of his prize, he is responsible for delivering these baguettes to President Macron and his team for the next year, in addition to receiving a cash prize of around $4,250. His popularity as a baker has led to long lines forming outside his boulangerie, Au Levain des Pyrénées, located on the outskirts of eastern Paris.
During an interview, Selvarajah explained what sets his bread apart. He emphasized the uniqueness of each baker’s hands, comparing it to how his mother’s and wife’s chicken curry, made from the same chicken, differ in taste. He expressed his joy in having the skills to create the best baguette in France and his contentment while working with flour and dough.
Creating a “baguette de tradition,” or traditional baguette, involves using only flour, water, salt, and yeast. While it may sound straightforward, achieving the perfect baguette is a complex endeavor. It requires a crust that is crispy, deep golden, and encases a fluffy, slightly salty interior with small air sacs, known as alveoli, that contribute to a mildly chewy consistency. Balancing appearance, taste, texture, and aroma is the key to success.
Selvarajah’s dedication to his craft is unwavering, working six days a week for up to 10 hours a day. He believes that this industriousness, which is characteristic of immigrants seeking to establish themselves in a new country, may explain why several winners of the baguette prize in recent years have had Tunisian or Senegalese roots.
With each passing year, Tharshan Selvarajah’s mastery of the art of crafting the perfect baguette continued to grow. His dedication to his craft was unwavering as he honed his skills and experimented with the delicate balance of flour, water, salt, and yeast. The result was a baguette that encapsulated the very essence of what a traditional French baguette should be.
The baguette competition is anonymous, with baguettes numbered and evaluated by a panel of experts. The winning baguette is expected to be well-baked, light, airy, and have a delightful crunch in the mouth.
In a country where immigration is a contentious political issue, Selvarajah has encountered occasional racism and prejudice. However, his success shines through the divisive rhetoric. Immigrants often take on jobs that the French are increasingly avoiding.
Selvarajah’s journey in the baking profession began in 2006 when he arrived in France from Sri Lanka and started working in an Italian restaurant, preparing salads and desserts. His transition to baking occurred through a client of the restaurant, Xavier Maulavé, who owned several bakeries and offered him a baking position. With no prior knowledge of baguette making, Selvarajah learned the art over time and became the head baker in 2012. In 2018, he entered the baguette competition for the first time, achieving third place. His business grew steadily, and by 2021, he acquired one of Maulavé’s stores.
As Selvarajah’s reputation in the world of baking continued to soar, he faced the challenges that often accompany success. Managing the demand for his exceptional baguettes, he found himself working long hours and dealing with the daily responsibilities of running a successful boulangerie. However, his dedication and love for the art of baking remained unshaken.
The “Grand Prize of the Traditional French Baguette” had brought both recognition and an influx of customers to his bakery, Au Levain des Pyrénées, located on the fringes of eastern Paris. The sight of long lines forming outside his boulangerie became a common occurrence, a testament to the extraordinary quality of his baguettes.
Tharshan Selvarajah’s story, a Sri Lankan immigrant rising to prominence in the world of French baking, served as a reminder of the cultural diversity and resilience that had long been a part of France’s history. While immigration remained a divisive issue in the country, Selvarajah’s success was a beacon of hope and a reminder that talent knows no boundaries.
His journey, from an immigrant with no knowledge of baguette making to being celebrated as the best baguette maker in France, was a testament to his unwavering dedication and the power of passion. As he continued to knead the dough and craft the perfect baguette each day, he not only brought joy to the palates of his customers but also highlighted the rich tapestry of cultures that make up modern France.
